Since its reopening on the 5th December 2005 , Pine court at the Mandarin Hotel has been wooing back old regulars and new customers alike with its refreshing and chic facelift. There are still traces of its previous “imperial courtyard” roots, but with a modern and charming twist. Gone are the old fashioned, garish reds, golds and overstated extravagance, but in place, is a contemporary and sophisticated outfit, decked in subdued browns, blacks and grey. Tradition takes on trend with the all new Pine Court .
The Vibe The first thing that catches the eye is an arresting walkway, illuminated by dim lights that create an aura of mystery. The walkway holds many striking pieces of oriental artifacts and motifs that trail all the way into the dark recesses of the restaurant. Unlike the typical Chinese restaurants which tend to be blindingly bright, Pine court is dim, with low key lighting and hazy pink lights. There is a play of different materials: Woods, stones and rich fabrics create a hybrid of textures, creating an illusion of depth and space. The in-house ceiling lights that hang like massive oriental lanterns from the ceiling cast a gentle glow upon diners. The effect is surprisingly romantic and intimate. Multifarious threads of Western and Eastern influences are all woven seamlessly together to form a beautiful quilt of diverse, and yet harmonious cultural exchange.
The Food Executive Chinese Chef Yang Lai Fatt may be young, but his culinary prowess stretches far beyond his age. Not surprisingly, he took the award for the most promising chef. His modern interpretation of traditional Cantonese dishes proves to be a hit amongst the old and the young where he rests his distinctive watermark on all dishes.
One cannot say he has dined at Pine Court without trying the number one signature dish, the classic Peking duck with condiments ($68). Succulent, crisp slices of duck are wrapped in a light green spinach puree crepe, an innovative way of presentation. Sandwiched in between the thin and fragrant crepe skin, are crunchy slices of cucumbers and juicy duck with a thick, sweet sauce. Also worth a try is the rich fragrance of the warm Shark's Bone Cartilage Broth ($22). Served in a hollowed out yellow melon, this steaming delight is double boiled for extra texture and flavor, and comes brimming with thick chunks of seafood. A thin layer of cartilage coats the surface of the soup. This ‘skin' melts gently onto the tongue, leaving a sticky and gooey texture, and a pleasant aftertaste.
Light and crispy, the Deep fried Canadian Sea Perch Steak ($20) is a visually stunning main dish that tastes as good as it looks. This dish shows off the wonderful soft folds of fish meat with its unique presentation. The fish is deftly sliced so the whole piece opens up in an unusual shape, like a golden-brown flower in bloom. This pretty “flower” sits elegantly on the plate, and is blanketed with a thin layer of sweet champagne sauce. Tiny slices of grapes give the dish an extra tangy flavor with a punchy bite.
Fried rice is served in most Chinese restaurants, and is just about one of the most predictable and boring dishes. However, the fried rice here at Pine Court has an added twist, making it addictive. The Wok-fried Rice ($12) has luscious bits of crabmeat and beads of bright orange fish roe embedded within its grains. The fish roe adds flavor to the rice, and gives it a crunchy texture, as it pops and crackles in the mouth, like tiny cereals.
Since eating is supposed to be 90 percent visual, my eyes inevitably succumbed to visual spectacle that is the sweetened cream of almond with yam paste ($8). The dish is served with dry ice giving the illusion of steam. This steamy delight has an impressive presentation. Sweet yam is draped with thick almond cream and served delightfully in a mini coconut-shell. The infusion of coconut, yam and almond flavors all in one dessert make this a wonderful treat for even the most discerning of taste buds.
The SD Food Advisor's take on Pine Court Sumptuous Cantonese cuisine, gorgeous interiors that pulsate with an enigmatic charm, food that looks almost too pretty to eat and top notch service makes dining like Pine Court an experience akin to an imperial banquet. Luxuriate in the air of intimacy that shrouds the place in its dark embrace. Feast your orbs on the visually stunning creations in front of you. Allow your senses to take a poignant journey into the world of Chinese fine dining. It never hurts to feel like royalty-even if for just one night.